보르도 2010 Lafite Rothschild
그 탁구는 무엇입니까? LINDA MURPHY는 많은 악의를 품고 오해를 받았지만 일부 분기에서는 인정받는 Brettanomyces의 세계를 조사합니다.
와인 경력의 첫해에 저는 전 세계 최고의 병을 선보일 때 와인을 따랐습니다. 스탠드에서 쉬는 시간에 나는 다른 많은 제물을 맛보기 위해 방을 돌아 다녔다.
제가 테이블로 돌아 왔을 때 옆에 있던 와인 메이커가“정말 인상적인 것이 있었나요?”라고 물었습니다.“보카 스테 성의 1989 년 샤토 우 네프 뒤 파프”라고 대답했습니다. 그는 웃었다 : '당신은 브렛을 사랑해야합니다.'브렛 – 브레 타노 미세스 (breh-tan-uh-MYE-sees) –가 그 당시 무엇인지는 몰랐지만, 저는 보 카스텔의 흙 같고 가죽 같고 훈제 베이컨과 향신료 캐릭터를 좋아했습니다. , 다육질의 과일과 단단한 구조.
나는 나중에 섭취하기에 해롭지 않지만 와인의 향과 풍미에 좋은 일과 나쁜 일을 모두 할 수있는 자연 발생 효모 인 브렛이 논쟁에서 명확한 승자없이 와인 메이커들 사이에서 뜨거운 주제가 될 것이라는 것을 알게 될 것입니다.
양조업자는 그것을 'B 단어'라고 부르며, Brettanomyces는 많은 사람들이 복잡함과 깊이를 더하는 긍정적 인 속성이라고 생각하는 와인을 제공 할 수 있습니다 : 장갑 가죽, 훈제 고기, 베이컨 지방, 담배, 트러플, 정향 및 기타 풍미의 흙 맛 향료.
그러나 B가 나빠지면 와인에 앞마당, 거름, 석고, 젖은 개, 땀에 젖은 말 담요, 쥐 배설물 및 방부제의 불쾌한 냄새가 날 수 있습니다. 후자를 두려워하는 전 세계의 많은 와인 메이커들이 브렛 오염을 방지하기 위해 최선을 다하고 있습니다.
다른 사람들은 그 여분의 관심을 위해 약간을 권장하지만 야생 효모가 품종의 특성과 과일 맛을 압도하지 않도록 열심히 노력해야합니다. 다른 사람들은 깨끗함이 경건함 옆에 있다면 어떤 와인 메이커들은 교회에 가지 않을 것이라고 말합시다. 맛이 좋지 않은 병에 대해 goût de terroir를 주장하는 사람들은 비위생적 인 관행에 대한 변명에 불과합니다.
친구 또는 적?
Brettanomyces에는 여러 종류의 – 그리고 이에 관한 이론이 있으며, 전체 토론에는 미생물학 논문이 필요합니다. 가장 간단히 말해서, Brett으로 확인 된 두 가지 와인 변경 화합물이 있습니다 : 4- 에틸 구이 아콜 (4-eg), 이는 많은 사람들이 베이컨과 향신료 및 4- 에틸 페놀 4-ep에 기여한다고 생각하는 것에 기여합니다. 젖은 개와 약용 특성.
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재미있는 기사
